Each Chef Should Train Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.

Jessica Dillon
Jessica Dillon

Wildlife biologist and conservationist with a passion for sloth research and environmental advocacy.